Geomorph Coastal 1

Front 1

parts of a wave: crest, wave length, trough, wave height, Fetch

Back 1

fetch- distance across which the wind and water interact

Front 2

Oscillatory and Translatory Motion

Back 2

Oscillatory
Translatory-re-suspends sediment

Front 3

different waves-spilling
plunging, surging, collapsing

Back 3

Front 4

Waves in deep water

Back 4

travel faster, approach coast at an angle

Front 5

waves in shallow water

Back 5

travel slower, crest nearly parallel to coast

Front 6

swash

Back 6

a turbulent layer of water that washes up on the beach after an incoming wave has broken. The swash action can move beach materials up and down the beach, which results in the cross-shore sediment exchange

Front 7

backwash

Back 7

the motion of receding waves.

Front 8

Shorelines

Back 8

are places where bodies of water meet dry land

Front 9

Coasts

Back 9

are landward of ocean shorelines

Front 10

Beach

Back 10

a narrow strip of land, washed by waves or tides .

Front 11

how are Ordinary Waves produced?

Back 11

Waves are produced when wind drag causes the surface water of oceans/lakes to rise and fall
- Waves get refracted on approaching shoreline

Front 12

Foreshore

Back 12

is the area between low tide and high tide

Front 13

Backshore

Back 13

is the area between high tide and sea cliff or inland vegetation line

Front 14

Beach face

Back 14

is the steepest part of Foreshore

Front 15

Berm

Back 15

is a horizontal bench of storm sediment

Front 16

picture beach

Back 16

Beach a narrow strip of land washed by waves or tides
Foreshore is the area between low tide and high tide
Backshore is the area between high tide and sea cliff or inland vegetation line
Beach face is the steepest part of Foreshore
Berm is a horizontal bench of storm sediment

Front 17

how is a Longshore current produced?

Back 17

is produced as water flows parallel to coastline

Front 18

how are Rip Currents produced?

Back 18

are produced when water piles up in surf zones and flows seaward, generally perpendicular to the coast.

Front 19

tides

Back 19

Daily rise/fall of surfaces of oceans/lakes due to gravitational pull of the Moon/Sun on the Earth– also due to force created as Earth spins on its axis

Front 20

Flood tides

Back 20

- elevate sea surface that cause shoreline to move inland

Front 21

Ebb Tides

Back 21

- low sea surface that cause shoreline to move seaward

Front 22

Tidal Bulges

Back 22

combination of gravity and inertia create two bulges of water. One forms where the Earth and moon are closest, and the other forms where they are furthest apart. Over the rest of the globe gravity and inertia are in relative balance. Because water is fluid, the two bulges stay aligned with the moon as the Earth rotates

Front 23

Wave erosion occurs when

Back 23

deep water waves hit the shore with full force
Air and water are forced into cracks at high pressure

Front 24

Headlands-

Back 24

cliffs that jut seaward

Front 25

Sea Caves are produced when

Back 25

waves are refracted against the side of headland

Front 26

Sea Arch forms when

Back 26

two Sea Caves erode completely through the headland

Front 27

Sea Stack is formed when

Back 27

Sea Arches collapse

Front 28

tombolo

Back 28

formed from wave refraction. the waves sweep sediment together from both sides. Eventually, when enough sediment has built up, the beach shoreline, known as a spit, will connect with an island and form a tombolo.

Front 29

coastal protection:
Riprap/Seawall-

Groins –

Jettys –

Back 29

Riprap/Seawall- protects shore lines. riprap is a bunch of rocks, seawall is just a wall. both catch the waves to stop erosion

Groins – Stabilize beaches. they jut out into the ocean and catch the sand

Jettys – Keep inlets clear. extends channel so deposition occurs further out

Front 30

Volcanic Black Sand Beach

Back 30

need active volcano, mafic magma. they erode quickly thats why it needs to be active.

Front 31

transport and depositional features:
Spit-
Hook
Baymouth Bar

Back 31

Spit is a finger-like ridge of sand deposited where Longshore drift encounters deeper water
Hook is a curved spit
Baymouth Bar is a spit that covers the access to a bay – the area behind it fills with sediment

Front 32

Filling of Tidal Inlets: 3 steps

Back 32

1) streams bring sediment to coast
2)coastal bay beaches filled w/ sediments as outlet becomes blocked by bar
3) tidal inlet completely fills in