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88 Cards in this Set

  • Front
  • Back
What is the term for the area from low tide to the highest level on land affected by storm waves?
Shoreline
T or F
Shorelines continuously adjust to changes such as increased or diminished sediment supply or wave activity.
TRUE
What migrates with sea level changes?
Shorelines
What term includes:
Shoreline
Nearshore sandbars and islands
Sand dunes
Marshes
Sea cliffs?
Coast
What is the term for regular fluctuations of the sea in response to the gravitational attraction of the moon and sun?
Tides
How many cycles of tides are there usually per day?
Usually 2 cycles of tides per day
How many days revolution does the Moon have?
28 days
How many times smaller is the Moon?
27 million times smaller
What percentage stronger is the Moon's gravitational pull?
46%
What type of tide results from sun and moon combined?
Spring tide
What type of tide averages 20% higher on average?
Spring
What type of tide results from sun and moon at right angles?
Neap tide
What type of tide averages 20% lower tides on average
Neap tides
What is the term for oscillations of the water surface which transmit energy, in the direction of its movement?
Wave
What is the term for the highest point of a wave?
Crest
What is the term for the lowest point of a wave?
Trough
What is the term for the distance from crest to crest between waves?
Wavelength
What is the term for the distance from trough to crest of a wave?
Wave height
What is the term for the time it takes for successive crests of waves to pass a given point?
Period (T)
What does L/2 mean?
Wave base
How is wave speed determined?
Wavelength (L)
_______________

Period (T)
Name the 4 causes that create waves:
1. Wind
2. Landslides
3. Faultings
4. Volcanic eruptions
How does wind create waves?
Fuid air over fluid water causes friction/transfer of energy causing water to oscillate
Name the 3 controlling factors of waves?
1. Wind velocity
2. Wind duration
3. Fetch
What is the term for the distance the wind blows over a continuous water surface?
Fetch
What happens to wavelength and wave height as waves enter water shallower than the wave base?
Wavelength decreases
Wave height increases
What is the result of waves that enter water shallower than the waves?
Waves become oversteepened and plunge forward as breakers
What is the term for the area extending seaward from the upper limit of the shoreline to just beyond where the waves break?
Nearshore
What 2 zones are included in the nearshore?
1. Breaker zone
2. Surf zone
What 2 types of waves are included as incoming waves?
1. Longshore waves
2. Rip currents
What is the term for the bending of waves so that they more nearly parallel the shoreline?
Wave refraction
What is the term for current resulting from wave refraction that flows parallel to the shoreline?
Longshore currents
What is responsible for much transport and deposition?
Longshore currents
What is the term for narrow, surface currents which rapidly carry water from the nearshore zone seaward through the breaker zone?
Rip currents
What type of water movements are extremely dangerous to swimmers?
Rip currents
What type of surface feature develops where erosion exceeds deposition in relation to the sea?
Sea cliffs
What is the term for the surface feature that is formed as a gently sloping, beveled surface abraded by wave action?
Wave-cut platforms
What is the term for the surface feature that are wave-cut platforms that have been raised above sea level?
Marine terraces
Wave erosion causes a sea cliff to migrate in what direction?
Landward
What is the term for the gently sloping surface along the coast of California?
Marine terrace
What is the term for the seaward-projecting parts of the shoreline?
Headlands
What might be formed by the wave refraction around rocky headland?
Sea caves
With continued erosion, what can sea caves merge to form?
Sea arches
With continued erosion, what does a collapsed arch leave?
Sea stacks
What is the term for deposits of unsonsolidated sediment extending landward from low tide to the edge of the dunes or a sea cliff?
Beaches
What is considered to be the most common shoreline depositional feature?
Beaches
What surface feature are continually modified by the action of waves, longshore currents, tides and storms?
Beaches
What surface features may be continuous or isolated pocket?
Beaches
What types of beaches are there?
1. Continuous
2. Isolated pocket
What are the 4 component to a beach?
1. Backshore
2. Berms
3. Beach face
4. Forehsore
Which beach component is usually dry?
Backshore
Which beach component are platforms that slope gently landward?
Berms
Which beach component is exposed to the wave swash?
Beach face
Which beach component is covered by water in high tide?
Foreshore
What is the term for water that washes up on shore?
Swash
What is the term for wter that roll back down the beach after wave break?
Backwash
T or F
Beach configuration remains unchanged under equilibrium conditions.
TRUE
Seasonal changes to beach configuration are related to wate?
Wave intensity
T or F
Longshore currents modify beach configuration to a lesser extent.
TRUE
T or F
Summer beaches are coarser grained, have a wide berm and gently sloping beach face.
TRUE
How is most beach sediment transported to the beach?
By streams
In what type of pattern do longshore currents move grains?
Zig-zag pattern
What is the term for structures projecting seawards at right angles to the shoreline?
Groins
Whartare often built to widen a beach or slow erosion?
Groins
What is the term for fingerlike projection of a beach into a body of water such as a bay?
Spits
Describe the ends of recurved spits?
Curved free ends
What is the term for a spit that has grown until it completely closes off a bay from the open sea?
Baymouth Bars
What physical features can both be problematic where bays need to be kept open?
1. Spits
2. Baymouth bars
What is the term for a type of spit extending out from the shoreline to an island?
Tombolo
What forms on the shoreward side of an island by refracted waves?
Tombolo
What cause the formation and growth of spits, baymouth bars and tombolos?
Longshore currents
What is the term for long narrow islands of sand formed at short distance offshore?
Barrier islands
Describe the beach side of a barrier island?
Smoothed by waves
Describe the landside of a barrier island?
Irregular due to storm shower deposits
What are physical features of barrier islands?
1. beaches
2. wind-blown dunes
3. marshy areas
What is the term for the balance of sediment inputs and sediment losses in a shoreline system?
Nearshore Sediment Budget
What is the source for most sediment input?
Streams and rivers transporting sediment to the shore
How is sediment lost along a shore?
1. Longshore drift
2. Longshore wind
3. Offshore sediment transport
What are the characteristics of depositional coasts?
1. abundant sediment
2. wide sandy beaches
3. deltas
4. barrier islands
What are the characteristics of erosional coasts?
1. steep irregularity
2. lack well developed beaches
Where are many erosional coasts in the US?
West coast US beaches
What is the term for coasts where sea level is rising with respect to land?
Submergent coasts
What is the term for coasts where land has risen with respect ot sea level?
Emergent coasts
What causes emergent coasts?
1. tectonics
2. isostacy
List the risks of living near shorelines?
1. mass wasting
2. beach loss due to erosion/deposition
3. storm damage
4. economic impact
List control techniques for living along shorelines:
1. sand replenishment
2. seawalls-reinforce concrete
3. riprap
4. groins
What is the term for reinforced concrete used to control shorelines?
Seawalls
What is the term for piles of stones used to control shorelines/
Riprap