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22 Cards in this Set

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What are some features of constructive waves?


Low height, swash greater than backwash, low energy, low frequency, low gradient and long wavelength

(They build the beach)

What are some features of destructive waves?

High height, backwash greater than swash, high energy, high frequency, high gradient and short wave length

(They ruin the beach (take it away))

Define fetch

The distance of open water of which the wind can blow

What is a beach?

A deposit of sand or shingle at the coast, often found at the head of a bay.

What is a swash?

The forward movement of a wave up a beach.

What is a backwash?

The backward movement of a wave down a beach when the wave has broken.

What is weathering?

The breakup or decay of rocks in their original place, or close to the earths surface.

What is mechanical weathering?

Weathering that doesn't involve a change to the chemical composition.

What is scree?

Deposits of angular rock fragments, for example found at the foot of an eroded cliff.

What is chemical weathering?

Weathering that involves a change in the chemical composition.

What is biological weathering?

Weathering caused by a living organism (e.g. roots or rabbits)

Describe what freeze thaw weathering involves.

Freeze thaw weathering happens in a crack in a cliff, when water gets into this crack it freezes at night and melts in the day, this repeated freeze thawing puts pressure on the rock as it expands when it freezes. Eventually the crack will get bigger and will cause part of the rock/cliff to collapse.

What is exfoliation?

Flaking of the outer surfaces of rocks, mainly caused by repeated cycles of hot and cold.

What is solution?

Dissolving of minerals or rocks by rain water.

What is carbonation?

Weathering of limestone and chalk by acidic rain water.

What is mass movement?

The downhill movement of material under the influence of gravity. (Most likely to happen when water is involved, (wet mud)). Mass movement causes cliffs to collapse and coasts to retreat massively.

What is the difference between a landslip a landslide?

A landslide occurs among planes, when a wet material is acting as a lubricant.


A landslip occurs on a cliff where the side plane is concave in shape which gives a more rotational movement.

Define coastal erosion.

The wearing away of the land by the sea.

Describe how hydraulic action works.

High energy waves smash into rocks. This force of the constant movement waves enters the cracks of the rocks and it causes the rock to break apart.

Describe how abrasion works.

Small rocks are picked up by the sea and thrown at the cliff, they scrape away at the cliff face.

Describe how attrition works.

Out at sea, pebbles knock together, creating smaller more rounded rocks.

Describe how solution works.

Rocks such as limestone or chalk are gradually dissolved by sea water (a very slow process).