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16 Cards in this Set

  • Front
  • Back

What are waves?

Oscillations of water's surface



wave base = λ ÷ 2

Because waves approach the shoreline at an angle they generate _______________.

Longshore currents

What are 2 processes of erosion by waves?

Hydraulic action


abrasion

What is a beach?

deposit of unconsolidated sediment extending from low tide to a change in topography (such as: cliff, vegetation)

What are rip currents?

narrow surface currents that flow in the same general direction as the approaching wave

The distance wind blows over a continuous water surface is known as ______________.

fetch

What are tides?

fluctuations in oceans surface


high tides = flood


low tides = ebb



Spring tides are 20% higher than sea level


Neap tides are 20% lower than sea level

What causes waves?

Landslides, earthquakes, wind (most common)

Large scale water circulation systems are called _______________.

Gyres (ex: Gulf Stream)

What is the difference between "pelagic clay" and "ooze"?

Clay is made of clay sized particles & is far from land



Ooze is made of organic materials (organism's shells)

What is upwelling?

circulation from the depths of the ocean to the surface



Places where upwelling occurs contain 50% of all fish)

What is downwelling?

circulation from the surface of the ocean to its depths

In 1 kg of ocean water, what percentage is substance?

35-37 parts per thousand ← salinity (not just salt)

The oceans are most likely to get saltier if .... ?

Runoffs from lakes & streams is increased

What is the photic zone?

the area in the ocean 100-200 m below the surface where there is enough sunlight for photosynthesis



aphotic zone = too little sunlight

Spring tides result from ... ?

Combined gravitational force if moon & sun (when the moon, earth, & sun are in alignment; New/Full moon)