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42 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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Generating Force
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a pulse of energy producing waves
disturbing force |
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Restoring Force
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the force that causes the water to return to its undisturbed surface level
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Capillary Waves
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ripples
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Crest
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highest point in the wave
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Equilibrium Surface
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still water line
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Deep-water Wave
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occurs in water deeper than 1/2 the wave's length
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Forced Waves
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when waves are being generated, they are forced to increase in size and speed by the continuing output
of energy |
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Storm Center
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area of origin for surface waves generated by the wind; an intense atmospheric low-pressure system.
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Sorting/Dispersion
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when the faster, longer waves gradually move through and ahead of the shorter, slower waves.
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Free Waves
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waves that continue to move at its natural speed after it is generated by a force
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Wave Train
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series of similar waves from the same direction
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Group Speed
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speed at which a group of waves travels (deep water: group speed = 1/2 speed of an individual wave); the speed which wave energy is propagated
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fetch
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distance over water that the wind blows in the same direction
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Episodic Waves
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large waves
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Potential Energy
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due to elevation of water surface
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Kinetic Energy
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due to the motion of the water particles in orbits
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Steepness
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height/length
S = H/L |
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Shallow-water Wave
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when the wave enters water with a depth of less than 1/20 the wavelength
D > 1/2 L *Wave speed of shallow water waves depends only on DEPTH of water* ***C = 3.13 x D^0.5 |
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Wave Ray
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line indicating the direction waves travel; drawn at right angles to the wave crests
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Defraction
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caused by the spread of wave energy sideways to the direction of wave travel
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Breaker
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sea surface water wave that has become too steep to be stable and collapses
most common types = plungers and spillers |
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Rip Current
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strong seaward flowing currents
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Seismic Sea Waves
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elastic disturbances or vibrations that are generated by earthquakes
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Tsunami
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long-period sea wave produced by a submarine earthquake, volcanic eruption, sediment slide, or seafloor faulting. May travel across the ocean floor for thousands of miles unnoticed from its point of origin and build up to great heights over shallow water at the shore
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node
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point of the container
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antinodes
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alternations of low and high water at each end
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seiches
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standing waves that occur in natural basins
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What controls size of wind waves?
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Wind Speed
Wind Duration Fetch (distance over water that wind blows in the same direction) |
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Episodic Waves (2)
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Rogue Waves
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Refraction
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bending of waves because of variations in wave speed
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Reflection
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Spreading and converging wave rays
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Deffraction
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spreading of wave energy around gaps and obsticles
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Spillers
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shallow sloped beaches
-give surfers longer ride |
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Plungers
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steep beach slopes or reefs
-give surfers more exciting ride |
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Picnocline
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separates the shallow mixed layer from denser underlying water (interface)
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Standing Waves
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-Do not progress
-Progressive waves reflected on themselves -Nodes and antinodes -Seiches (stanging waves occuring in natural basins) |
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Internal Waves
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waves that form along the air-water boundary
- slower than surface waves |
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T-F
Wavelength refers to distance between crests whereas wave period refers to time between crests |
True
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T-F
Waves break when the ratio of H/L > 1:7 |
True
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Kinetic energy refers to the elevation of water surface
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False
potential energy.... |
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Oscillating Pycnocline causes shallow water waves
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False
....causes internal waves |
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The production of a wave requires _____?
A. a "restoring" force B. a "disturbing" force C. heat D. rain |
B. a "disturbing" force
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