Fashion History, The Renaissance Through The French Revolution

Front 1

Humanism

Back 1

a Renaissance cultural movement that turned away from medieval scholasticism and revived interest in ancient Greek and Roman thought.

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Shirt

Back 2

becomes of of the key male garments, no longer an undergarment

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Slashing

Back 3

slits in clothing to give ventilation and show off the undershirt

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Bodice

Back 4

the part of a woman's dress (excluding sleeves) that is above the waist.

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Chopines

Back 5

originally used as a patten, clog, or overshoe to protect the shoes and dress from mud and street soil, a platform shoe

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Beret

Back 6

a round flattish cap of felt or cloth.

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Jerkin

Back 7

Jacket, a man's close-fitting jacket, typically made of leather.

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Knitted Hose

Back 8

tights, sewing of hose to breeches

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Duck-Bill Shoes

Back 9

shoes were made of silk, brocade or velvet and were heavily padded, puffed and embroidered with the upper part slashed so that colored hose showed through.

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Gown

Back 10

a long dress, typically having a close-fitting bodice and a flared or flowing skirt, worn on formal occasions.

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Petticoat

Back 11

a woman's light, loose undergarment hanging from the shoulders or the waist, worn under a skirt or dress.

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Gabled Headdress

Back 12

simple pointed hood with decorated side panels called lappets and a veil at the back

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Peascod Belly Doublet

Back 13

doublets were padded over the belly with bombast in a "pouter pigeon" silhouette.

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Pumpkin Breeches

Back 14

often made in panels of alternating fabric and padded to give them a particular shape.

separate leg hose into one garment, joined at the crotch. This allowed for full-length hose and shorter breeches, allowing more of the leg to be shown.

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Bombast

Back 15

cotton padding

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Ruff

Back 16

a projecting starched frill worn around the neck

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Pickadils

Back 17

a decorative trimming of cutwork that is scalloped, tabbed, or pointed and used as an edging on doublets, collars, and other garments

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Boning (Stays)

Back 18

supports the desired shape and prevents wrinkling

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Busk

Back 19

the rigid element of a corset placed at the centre front

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Farthingale (Wheel & Bum Roll)

Back 20

a hooped petticoat or circular pad of fabric around the hips, formerly worn under women's skirts to extend and shape them.

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Protestant Reformation

Back 21

16th-century religious, political, intellectual and cultural upheaval that splintered Catholic Europe, setting in place the structures and beliefs that would define the continent in the modern era.

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Puritan

Back 22

a group of English Protestants in the 16th and 17th centuries, including, but not limited to, English Calvinists.Puritanism in this sense was founded by John Calvin from the clergy shortly after the accession of Elizabeth I of England in 1558, as an activist movement within the Church of England.

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Drawers

Back 23

underpants

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Lace

Back 24

a fine open fabric, typically one of cotton or silk, made by looping, twisting, or knitting thread in patterns and used especially for trimming garments.

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Baldric

Back 25

wide belt or sash made out of fabric

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Cavalier

Back 26

dashing, swaggering, masculinity

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Cocked Hat

Back 27

a hat with a wide brim permanently turned up toward the crown

Front 28

Lovelock

Back 28

a curl of hair worn on the temple or forehead

Front 29

Hurly-Burly Coiffure

Back 29

hair, overwhelmingly curly hair on either side

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Patches

Back 30

to highlight white skin and hide deformations, fake beauty marks

Front 31

Fashion Dolls

Back 31

dolls that were dressed in fashions of the period to show men and women overseas and promote French fashion everywhere.

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Louis XV (ruled 1723-1774), Louis XVI (ruled 1774-1792)

Back 32

The Rococo

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Knee Breeches

Back 33

short trousers worn by men and fastened at or just below the knee.

Front 34

Jabot

Back 34

how the necktie evolved, lacey ruffle at the neck

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Cotton

Back 35

popular amongst the upper classes, best cotton came from India

Front 36

Calf-enhancers

Back 36

little pillows tied onto the legs with stockings put over

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Tri-corn

Back 37

a hat cocked on there sides, the rim of the hat pinned to the crown of the hat

Front 38

Snuff

Back 38

tobacco, extinguish?

Front 39

Madame Du Barry--mistress of Louis the 15th

Madame Du Pompadour--mistress of Louis the 15th

Marie Antoinette--wife of Louis the 16th

Back 39

The trend setters of the Rococo. A time where everything was very feminine detailed, and dainty. Florals were used frequently, the time of the garden.

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Panniers

Back 40

French for breadbasket, they are side undergarments or elongated cages made out of cane or wood used to widen the silhouette. Worn on both sides of the dress.

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Polonaise

Back 41

Pulling up and pinning the gown in various ways to create a scallop and draped effect.

Front 42

Watteau Pleats

Back 42

sack-back gowns, pleated train from the shoulders to the ground

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Fichu

Back 43

embroidered pieces of silk or linen, hides the breasts, fancier stomacher

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Rose Bertin

Back 44

a French milliner and dressmaker to Queen Marie Antoinette. She was the first celebrated French fashion designer and is widely credited with having brought fashion and haute couture to the forefront of popular culture.

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Romanticism

Back 45

about the self, nature, emotion, introversion, and imagination

Front 46

Les Incroyables (Macaroni's)

Back 46

parody of the 18th Century, took fashion to extremes, cross dressing

Front 47

French Revolution (begins 1789)

Back 47

French overthrow Versailles, freedom reached and poverty declined

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Sans Culottes

Back 48

men without knee breeches, or without class or style, long pants

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Napoleon Bonaparte

Back 49

crowned in 1804, brought law and order back to France

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Swallowtail Coat

Back 50

exposes the breeches, curved lines

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Cutaway Coat

Back 51

cut away to the sides, then to the tails in the back

Front 52

Spencer Coat

Back 52

short coat and has no tails at all

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Stock Tie

Back 53

a tie worn around the neck of a competitor riding in an equestrian event. Most competition rules require it to be white, and mandate its use in dressage, and the dressage phase of eventing.

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Neckcloth (Cravat)

Back 54

Wrapped around several times and then tied in a bow.

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Trousers

Back 55

1.

an outer garment covering the body from the waist to the ankles, with a separate part for each leg.

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Beau Brummell

Back 56

fashion innovator, goal was to make male fashions about cleanliness, fit, and understatement rather than lavish displays of wealth. Instilled hygiene rules, care in your dress and clothing became important.

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Greatcoat (Overcoat)

Back 57

an overcoat, large coat that capes on top for extra warmth

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Stock Tie

Back 58

Very firm tie that wraps around the neck and is tied or buckled.

Front 59

The Italian Renaissance, Early Renaissance

15th Century

Back 59

- Earth/Naturalism, Humanism, values education of all types.

- Rebirth of Greek/Roman ideals

- Gowns have higher necklines/free falling skirts, men wear one color and the shirt becomes focus.

- Hair exposed, wrapped hair and chignons, not much makeup

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The High Italian Renaissance

16th Century

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- Trade/Commerce: the Renaissance world expands

- Horizontality of dress, bigger sleeves, garments extend outward

- Fur, Corduroy, Velvet, Padding

- Black is important, associated with sidom or age

- German/Swiss military influence, abundant slashing

- tights happened, sewing of hose to breeches

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Northern Baroque

Back 61

- Age of exploration, commerce/capitalism

- Growth of upper middle class, domesticity and quiet pleasures

- ***Defining fashion trend of 17th century is the deflation of languid loosening of previous century's sartorial ideal

- Higher waists for men/women, lace on collars and cuffs

- High waisted doublet/relaxed knee length breeches

- The Ruff deflates into flat collar

- lace = big deal, nod to higher class

- Tall crowned, broad brimmed hat (pilgrim hat)

- longer hair for men

- Women: stomacher, chemise seen through clothes via slashing

- Dress in pieces: blonde bodice/stomacher; petticoat and gown

- Puritan simplicity: Older women wear ruffs, hair covered.

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Southern Baroque

Back 62

- New middle class: fashion trimmings, lace bows, ribbons

- Texture and sheen for newly rich commercial class

- Catholicism/theatricality--influence of the opera on the visual arts, moment, texture, sensuality, fun.

- High drama/sexuality

-Loose, rippled flesh and fabric, luxury of weight and delight in motion

- Cavalier, dashing, swaggering, masculinity

- Male dress: look lengthens, loosens, and becomes more lanquid/ornate

- Slashing, satin lace

- long hair, love locks

- Women: girth/fluidity: texture/sheer

- Boned bodice/stomacher stays, male tailor/corsetry

- Sweet Disorder, slashing of garments

- Textural play: hurly-burly coiffure with curled bangs

- white skin, lip color, blue veining, patches to highlight white skin and hide deformations, fake beauty marks