Fash290: Test #4:: Ch. 12-15

Front 1

define fabric

Back 1

a pliable, planelike structure that can be made into two or three-dimensional products that require some shaping and flexibility.

Front 2

what is minimum yardage?

Back 2

the shortest length of fabric a firm will produce to sell to another firm

Front 3

What can you make fabric from? What starting materials?

Back 3

Solutions (films and foams), fibers (felts, fiberwebs, nonwovens), yarns (braids, knits, laces, wovens) and fabrics (composite fabrics combining solutions, fibers, yarns, or fabrics to produce a fabric).

Front 4

How do fabrics get their names?

Back 4

- earlier end use
- the town in which the fabric was woven originally
- the person who originated or was associated with that fabric

Front 5

What is the first step in identifying a fabric?

Back 5

determine the starting material

Front 6

How do you assess quality in a fabric?

Back 6

it can be made by inspecting or examining fabric with the eyes or an instrument to identify visible irregularities, defects, or flaws.

Front 7

Define woven fabrics. What are the two basic components found in woven fabrics?

Back 7

fabrics made with two or more sets of yarns interlaced at right angles.

two basic components are the warp and the filling

Front 8

Define warp. What is another word for warp?

Back 8

warps run lengthwise and are also called ends

Front 9

Define filling. What are other words used to describe filling?

Back 9

filling runs in the horizontal/crosswise direction and are also called weft

Front 10

How do woven yarns vary from one another? (Four part answer - bottom page 215)

Back 10

the way the yarns interlace, the pattern formed by the interlacing the number of yards per inch, the ratio of warp to to filling yarns

Front 11

What characteristics are found in woven fabrics?

Back 11

- two or more sets of yarns interlaced at right angles to one another
- many different interlacing patterns give interest and texture to the fabric
- yarns can be raveled from adjacent sides.
- fabric have grain
- fabrics are relatively stable, with little stretch in warp or filling

Front 12

True or false? All of the weaves that are known today have been made for thousands of years.

Back 12

True

Front 13

Define loom.

Back 13

a machine used to create weaves

Front 14

Name the parts of the loom. What does each part of the loom do?

Back 14

warp beam, warp, harness, heddles, reed/batten, shuttle, filling yarn, cloth/fabric beam

Front 15

Weaving consists of the following 4 steps

Back 15

shedding, picking, beating up, take-up

Front 16

What is winding?

Back 16

when yarns are repackaged so that they can be used to weave a fabric on a specific loom

Front 17

What is creeling?

Back 17

large frames that hold yarn as it is wound onto a warp beam

Front 18

The weave structure or pattern in the fabric is determined by three factors...

Back 18

1. the order in which the warp yarns are threaded through the harness
2. the combination of harnesses raised or lowered at a time
3. the sequence in which the harnesses are raised or lowered

Front 19

Warp and filling yarns have different demands placed on them. What are those differences?

Back 19

Warp must withstand the high tensions of the loom and abrasion of weaving, so the warp yarns are stronger and more uniform with higher twist.

Filling/Weft re more often fancy or special-function yarns such as high-twist crepe yarns, low-twist napping yarns or bouclé.

Front 20

What is grain? Off-grain? Skew? Bow?

Back 20

grain refers to the geometry or position of warp yarns relative to filling yarns in the fabric.

off-grain: skew and bow.
skey occurs when the filling yarn is off a 90 degree angle.
bow is when the filling yarns dip in the center of the fabric.

Front 21

How do you conduct a fabric count? How do you write a fabric count?

Back 21

counting the warp and filling yarns per square inch, you write a fabric count by writing the warp number first, then the weft number. or the total of the two.

Front 22

What does "balance" mean when talking about woven fabrics? Why is looking at balance helpful?

Back 22

the ratio of warp yarns to filling yarns in a fabric

Front 23

What is a selvage?

Back 23

the lengthwise self-edge of a fabric

Front 24

How is fabric width determined?

Back 24

a loom determines that

Front 25

What words are used to describe "fabric weight"?

Back 25

lightweight, medium weight, heavy weight

Front 26

Fabric names are based on many factors, such as… (bottom page 226)

Back 26

fabric structures, fabric weight, yarn type, yarn balance, and finishes

Front 27

What are the three basic types of weaves? P, T, & S…

Back 27

plain, twill, satin

Front 28

What is a plain weave? Do they have a technical face or back due to the weave?

Back 28

simplest weave, formed by yarns are right angles passing over and under one another.

no technical face

Front 29

What is a balanced plain weave?

Back 29

warp and filling yarns are the same size and same distance apart

Front 30

What is an unbalanced plain weave? What is a filling rib? What does it mean to be warp faced?

Back 30

there are significantly more yarns in one direction than the other.

filling ribs have more reed pressure in the weft direction.

warp faced means the warp yarns form the surface of the fabric.

Front 31

What is a basket weave?

Back 31

made with two or more adjacent warps controlled by the same harness, and with two or more filings placed in the same shed.

Front 32

What is a twill weave? How is it made? What is a wale? A float?

Back 32

when each warp or filling yarn floats across two or more filling or warp yarns with a progression of interlacings by one to the right or left, forming distinct diagonal line or wale.

a float is a yarn that crosses over two or more yarns from the opposite direction.

Front 33

Satin weaves. How are they made? Difference between satin and sateen.

Back 33

each warp yarn floats over four filling yarns and interlaces with the fifth.

sateen is spun yarns.

Front 34

How do fancy fabrics differ from basic fabrics?

Back 34

fancy fabrics differ because the design, texture, or pattern is an inherent and permanent part of the fabric's structure that cannot be removed without dismantling the fabric.

Front 35

Why is identifying the production technique important?

Back 35

it assists in naming the fabric and in selecting a serviceable fabric for an end use.

Front 36

How are fancy weaves and woven figures made in a fabric?

Back 36

they are made in a fabric by changing and interlacing pattern between the design area and the background

Front 37

What is a dobby weave? How is it made?

Back 37

dobby weaves are small figured designs that require fewer than 25 different arrangements to complete one repeat of the design

Front 38

What is an extra-yarn weave? How is it made?

Back 38

when additional warp or filling yarns of different colors or types are woven into a fabric to create a pattern

Front 39

What is a pique weave? How is it made?

Back 39

a fabric when there is a raised effect that similar to that in quilts.

ridges are held up by floats on the back

Front 40

What is a jacquard weave? How is it made?

Back 40

large figured designs that require mor than 25 different arrangements of the warp yarns to complete one repeat design

Front 41

What is a momie weave? How is it made?

Back 41

a weave that presents no wale or other distinct weave effect but gives the cloth the appearance of being sprinkled with small spots of seeds

Front 42

What is a leno weave? How is it made?

Back 42

weave in which the warp yarns do not lie parallel to each other.

works in pairs, one yarn of each pair is crossed over the other before the filling yarn is inserted.

Front 43

What is double cloth? What are the 3 types of woven double-cloth fabrics?

Back 43

cloth made from 3 sets of yarns.

1. double cloth
2. double weave
3. double-faced

Front 44

What is a pile weave? How is it made?

Back 44

3 dimensional structures made by weaving an extra set of warp or filling yarns into the ground yarns to make loops or cut ends on the surface.

Front 45

What is a slack-tension weave? How is it made?

Back 45

when two warp beams are used. the yarns on one beam are held at regular tension and those on the other beam are held at slack tension.

Front 46

What is a tapestry weave? How is it made?

Back 46

hand-produced, filling-faced, plain weave fabric. the discontinuous filling yarns are arranged so that the color in the weave changed and a pattern is created.

Front 47

Define knitting. What is the unique advantage of knitting?

Back 47

the formation of a fabric by the interlooping of one or more sets of yarns.

a unique advantage is that complete products such as sweaters, and hoisery can be produced or fashioned on the knitting machine.

Front 48

True or false? There is a knit counterpart for almost every woven fabric.

Back 48

True

Front 49

What is filling knitting or weft knitting?

Back 49

it is a process in which one yarn or yarn set is carried back and forth (or around) ad under needles to form a fabric.

Front 50

What is warp knitting?

Back 50

a process in which a warp beam is set into a machine and yarn sets are interlooped to form a fabric.

Front 51

True or false? In knitted fabrics, yarns do not move in both directions as they do in weaving.

Back 51

True

Front 52

True or false? There are not separate sets of warp and filling yarns in a knitted fabric.

Back 52

True

Front 53

What happens when you unravel a woven fabric? What happens when you unravel a knitted fabric?

Back 53

Both warp and filling yarns are removed in a woven fabric.

Only a row of loops is removed in a knit fabric.

Front 54

Knitting is done by needles. List the four types of needles used in knitting.

Back 54

spring-beard, latch, double-late, compound.

Front 55

Needles make stitches or loops. Stitch names are based on the way they are made. Stitches may be ________________ or ___________________ depending on how the stitch is made.

Back 55

open or closed

Front 56

Define fabric density. What are wales and courses?

Back 56

it is defined by describing the number of stitches, not yarns, in a specific direction.

wales are the vertical stitches and courses are the horizontal stitches

Front 57

What is gauge or cut? What do they indicate?

Back 57

they indicate the fineness of the stitch; it is the number of needles in a specific distance on the needle bar and is often expressed as "needled per inch" (npi).

Front 58

What is the technical face and technical back of a knit? How are they different?

Back 58

technical face: the other side of the fabric as knitted

technical back: inner side of the fabric as knitted

Front 59

True or false? Knits are more prone to snagging, sagging, and skew. Why or why not?

Back 59

they are more prone to snagging and sagging, but not skew.

Front 60

Which has a higher potential for shrinkage? Wovens or knits? Which has the higher potential to wrinkle during use? What is a run?

Back 60

knitted fabrics have a higher potential for shrinkage. wovens are more likely to wrinkle. a run is when the stitches in a wale collapse or pull out.

Front 61

What is filling knitting, sometimes called weft knitting?

Back 61

hand knitting

Front 62

Describe the differences between the two types of knitting machines: flat bed and circular.

Back 62

circular - faster production, described by the diameter of the fabric tube they produce.

flat - knit a variety of widths, most are at east 100 inches wide

Front 63

Define knit stitch, tuck stitch, float or miss stitch, purl or reverse stitch.

Back 63

knit stitch: first stitch
tuck stitch: used to create a pattern in the fabric
float/miss stitch: also sued to create a pattern in the fabric
purl/reverse stitch: forms a fabric that looks on both sides like the technical back of a basic knit fabric

Front 64

What is jersey? Name some end uses.

Back 64

a fabric of lightweight to heavyweight; it is usually knit on a circular jersey machine and sold in tubular form or cut and sold as flat goods

Front 65

What is jacquard jersey and how does the pattern develop?

Back 65

in jacquard jersey, the pattern develops because of different stitch types, yarn colors, or a combination of stitch type and yarn color

Front 66

How do you tell the difference between a woven terrycloth and a knitted terrycloth?

Back 66

knitted is softer and more absorbent than woven terrycloth

Front 67

What is sliver-pile knits? What kind of fabrics do they produce?

Back 67

made on a special weft-knit, circular sliver knitting machine and are furlike high-pile or deep-pile fabrics.

they produce fake furs

Front 68

What is fashioning?

Back 68

used to shape parts like armholes, neckline curves, collar points, and finish edges

Front 69

Describe the difference in the production of hosiery vs. panty hose.

Back 69

hoisery is made in pieces, panty hose is one piece.

Front 70

What is warp knitting? (page 283)

Back 70

developed by machines before people.
uses one or more sets of yarns that are wound on warp beams and mounted on the knitting machine

Front 71

What is true intarsia and mock intarsia?

Back 71

true is when the yarn used to create a pattern in the fabric is knit into the fabric in that area only.

mock is made by knitting and float knitting, which results in a heavier weight fabric with floating yarns on the reverse side or a shadow pattern

Front 72

Fabrics made from solutions: films & foams. Know how they are made. Be able to tell the difference between the two.

Back 72

films: made from a polymer solution
foams: made from incorporating air into an elasticlike substance

Front 73

Fabrics made from fibers: "nonwovens" (know about the confusion with knits - mid page 297)

Back 73

knits aren't woven, but they are not non-wovens

Front 74

What is a fiberweb structure? How is it produced?

Back 74

all textil sheet structures made from fibrous webs, bonded by mechanical entanglement of fibers, by using resins, by thermal fusion, or by forming chemical complexes.

Front 75

What is needle punching?

Back 75

consists of passing a dry-laid web over a needle loom as many times as is necessary to produce the desired strength and texture

Front 76

What is fiberfill? Batting? Wadding?

Back 76

fiberfill is not a fabric.
battling: made from new fiber
wadding: made from waste fiber
fiberfill: manufactured fiber staple made especially for use as a filler

Front 77

What is down?

Back 77

undercoating of waterfowl

Front 78

What is felt?

Back 78

a mat or web of wool

Front 79

What are netlike structures?

Back 79

include all textile structures formed by extruding one or more fiber-forming polymers as a film or a network of ligaments or strands.

Front 80

Fabrics made from yarns:

Back 80

braids and lace.

Front 81

What are the handmade laces? Machine-made lace?

Back 81

handmade: needlepoint, bobbin, crocheted, battenberg.

machine: leavers, cordonnet, re-embroidered, raschel

Front 82

Fabrics made from composite fabrics:

Back 82

coated, suedelike & leatherlike, flocked, laminates, quilted.