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132 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
Classics
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fashion items spread over time
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Fads
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last a short time usually 6 months or less
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Fashion
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The current style or accepted mode of dress in favor at the moment.
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3 Components of Fashion
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style, acceptance, timeliness
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Style
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distinctive appearance of a garment
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Mass Fashion
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styles that are widely accepted (volume fashion)
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Design
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variations of style due to seaming, materials, and trimmings
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Silhouette
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outter shape of apparel
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Straight (tubulor) silhouette
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narrow, cylindrical w/ little hip indentation
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A-line Silhouette
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falls from shoulder to hem w/ no indentation at hip
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Inverted triangle
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top half wider than bottom half
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Couturier
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designs haute couture
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Pret- a-porter
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French ready to wear
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Clothing
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body covering not including body modifications
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Appearance
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total composite image created by both clothing and human body
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Transformations
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color- hair dye
texture- perm, scarification shape- change in weight |
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Dress
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includes features of DRESSED body w/ modifications and supplements of ALL senses
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Most common misconception
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designers and retailers dictate fashion and force it upon consumer
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other misconceptions:
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fashion only influences women
Fashion is mysterious and unpredictable |
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Fashion Cycle
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reflects acceptance of style or trend
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5 stages of fash cycle
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1) introduction
2) rise in popularity 3) peak of popularity 4) decline in popularity 5) rejection |
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Downward Flow(Trickle-Down) Theory
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upper-class sends fashion down to lower class
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Upward Flow (Trickle-Up)Theory
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Youth influences styles (street, grunge)
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Horizontal-Flow (trickle- across) Theory
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* MOst Important
fashion moves across groups of the same social status- reatailers watch their own consumers |
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Innovators and the Influentials
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- fashion leaders
- wear new fashion before it is acceptable |
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Fashion Followers
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-conform to others
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Retail Market Segment
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customers who have similar needs and are satisfied by same retail mix
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Methods for segmenting Retail Markets
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Geographic
Demographic Psychographic |
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Demographic
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age
sex ethnicity income occupation eduaction level |
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Gray Market
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born before 1945- neglected by fashion
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Baby Boomers
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born between 1946 - 1964
*Primary spending group |
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Baby Busters (generation X)
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born between 1965-1979
career-oriented, less spending |
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Echo Boomers (genertation Y, Net generation)
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born since 1980
-racially diverse -technologically educated |
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Psychographic Segementation
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-lifestyles
-values -personality |
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Values, Attitudes, and Lifestyle Survey (VALS)
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-Personality- profiling system
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Fashion Business Structure Flow Chart
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Primary, Secondary, Retailers, Consumers
*Auxiliary Fashion Industry sells to all |
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Primary Level
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-raw material producers
-earliest stage - 2 yr. lead time |
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Secondary Level
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-maufacturers and contracters
-6 months - 1 1/2 yrs. lead time |
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Retail Level
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-Retailers who buy from 2ndry level
- ultimate distributor -3-6 months lead time |
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Auxiliary Level
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-support service
-publicity, advertising |
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Internal Horizontal
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company expands on level it operates on
(ex: retailer opens more stores) |
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Vertical
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Company expands on levels other than primary function
(ex: apparel co. produces own fabric) |
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External
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Merger- where sale of one co. to another occurs w/ purchasing company remaining dominant
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Diversification
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company adds new products or services to serve diff. markets
(Gap buys BR and makes Old Nay covering 3 price ranges) |
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Franchise
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purchased operations that conform to the Franchise and benefit from its power
- 1/3 of all retial sales |
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NAtural Fibers
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Cotton - most used
Wool- good for cold Silk- luxurious, breathable Linen- wrinkles easily |
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Manufactured Fibers
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synthetic or manmade
starts from polymer or petrochemicals |
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Cellulosic
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raw materials, plants
rayon, lyocell, acetate |
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Non-Cellulosic (synthetic)
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from chemicals from petroleum
polyester, acrylic, spandex |
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high-tech natural fibers
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spiders silk- goat's milk
casein fiber- cow's milk |
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most common weave
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plain weave
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Tricot
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made with fine-denier filament yarns
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Raschel
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most complex warp-knit structure
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stock dyeing
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dyes loose fibers before yarn processing
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Yarn dyeing
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used to dye woven patterns like stripes, plaids, and checks
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Piece dyeing
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dyeing a piece of fabric after weaving or knitting
** Least expensive, most widely used |
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Cross dyeing
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-type of piece dyeing
-less expensive -2 color pattern |
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Garment Dyeing
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whole greige goods garments are dyed after being sewn
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Flatbed Screen Printing
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uses screen spread over a frame
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Rotary Screen Printing
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mechanized version of flatbed.
faster |
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Calendering
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passing fabric between heavy rollers
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Cross dyeing
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-type of piece dyeing
-less expensive -2 color pattern |
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Garment Dyeing
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whole greige goods garments are dyed after being sewn
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Flatbed Screen Printing
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uses screen spread over a frame
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Rotary Screen Printing
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mechanized version of flatbed.
faster |
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Calendering
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passing fabric between heavy rollers
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Heat Setting
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final finish where man made fabrics are heated to just under melting point. Improves Resilience
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Napping
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creating a wolly or flannel surface by raising and plucking surfaces of fabric
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Shearing
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shearing the fabric to take off fuzz
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Sanding (Sueding)
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rubbing w/ rollers of sandpaper to soften surface
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Shrink Control
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preshrinking cotton
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Caustic Reduction
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caustic bath to give silklike feel
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Decatizing
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use heat and moisture to stabilize wool
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Durable Press
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apply resin to decrease ironing needed
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Mercerizing
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treating cotton w. caustic chemical to make silky
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Water Repellency
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chemical treatment and then woven to make breathable cloth that is water repellent
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NAFTA
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North American Free Trade Agreement
free market w/ no import duties Canada, US & Mexico |
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FTAA
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Free Trade Agreement of the Americas
34 western nations |
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WTO
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World Trade Organization
governs worldwide trade- 145 countries- 90% world merchandise trade |
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ATC
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Agreement on Textiles and Clothing
2005 quota removal for WTO members |
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The New Look
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1947 Dior
- longer more fitted |
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Chanel
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1916-21
boyish look/ jersey |
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Patou
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1922-29
Flapper look |
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Sewing Machine
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1846 Elias Howe
1859- Isaac Singer |
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Gibson Girl
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1890s
high neck, puff sleeve blouse, long skirt ideal middle-class woman |
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Product Line
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grouping of items w/ common theme
(ex: color, fabric, style) |
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Assortment
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Products in product line
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Expressive
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the feeling you get from a product
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Symbolic
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culturally defined & shared by members of a culture
( ex: red , white, blue = patriotic) |
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6 Stages in Product Development Process
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1) Planning line
2) creating design concept 3) Developing designs 4) Planning Production 5) Production 6) Distributing the line |
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Sourcing
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determining where the components of a garment will be purchased
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Offshore Production
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U.S. producing things in foreign countries
-cheaper labor |
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UPC
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bar codes on items for sale
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Line
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a form that has significantly greater length than width
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2 types of lines
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-actual
-implied |
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Vertical Lines
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-appear to lengthen
-slimming |
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Wide Vertical Line
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-appears to widen as eye moves across
-strong, bold |
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Horizontal Lines
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-rest, quiet
-appear to shorten -appear to widen |
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Wide Horizontal Lines
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appear to add width and weight
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Diagonal Lines
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-movement, action
- appear to lengthen as slant is more vertical - appears to widen as slant more horizontal |
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Curved Lines
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grace, charm, femininity
- restraining (scoop neck) - active (busy to look at, floral) |
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Vertical Lines give you
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height and slimness
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Horizontal Lines give you
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shorten and widen
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Shape
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a flat space enclosed by a 2-D line
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Form
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a volume space enclosed by a 3-D surface
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Texture
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surface quality of an object
1) hand 2) drape 3) determinants of texture |
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Optical illusions
to appear smaller: |
-lightweigtht fabrics
- dull -clinging |
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Optical illustions
to add dimension: |
-heavy, bulky fabric
-fuzzy surfaced fabrics - stiff |
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Pattern
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arrangement of lines, spaces, or shapes on or in a fabric
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Types of patterns
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-in a fabric (using yarns/ weaves)
-applied on surface of completed fabric - combination of 2 |
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Balance
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distribution of visual weight within a form
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2 Types of Balance
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Formal
informal |
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Formal Balance
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weighted equally, symmetrical
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Informal Balance
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not weighted equally, asymmetrical
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Proportion
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relationships of distance, size, amounts in aesthetic forms
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Emphasis
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focal point, attracts viewer's attention
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Optical illusions
to appear smaller: |
-lightweigtht fabrics
- dull -clinging |
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Optical illustions
to add dimension: |
-heavy, bulky fabric
-fuzzy surfaced fabrics - stiff |
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Pattern
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arrangement of lines, spaces, or shapes on or in a fabric
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Types of patterns
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-in a fabric (using yarns/ weaves)
-applied on surface of completed fabric - combination of 2 |
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Balance
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distribution of visual weight within a form
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2 Types of Balance
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Formal
Informal |
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2 Types of Balance
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Formal
Informal |
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Formal Balance
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weighted equally, symmetrical
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Informal Balance
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not weighted equally, asymmetrical
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Proportion
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relationships of distance, size, amounts in aesthetic forms
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Emphasis
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focal point, attracts viewer's attention
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Rhythm
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feeling of organized movement
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Types of rhythm
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- simple repetition
- Alternation - Gradation - Radiation |
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Alternation
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repeted sequence of only 2 things
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Gradation
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sequence of adjacent units which change from small to large or light to dark
* Not common |
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Radiation
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-one focal point & lines or colors extend from that point
* Rarest form |