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47 Cards in this Set

  • Front
  • Back
what type of silhouette existed from 1900-1918?
slimmed down
Haberdasher
magazine published for retailers of men's furnishings
sack suit
least formal suit for daytime town and business wear;increased dominance over the frock coat; more fitted w/half belts & pleats in upper back(1912-1918)
frock coat in 1912
worn by more conservative, older men for limited occassions
morning coat
curved edges & cutaway shape continued for formal, daytime wear
dinner coat
worn for less formal occasions of the evening;has shawl collar or peaked lapels
swallowtail coat
worn for more formal evening events
sack coat
1903;buttons high with 4 buttons (tiny collar & lapels); 3 buttoned:slightly larger collar & longer lapels (as double breasted coats)
summer suit
rounded patch pockets & no vest
Chesterfield coat
straight tubular silhouette, set in sleeves, small collar, & single breasted fly front
ulster
1910 heavy tweed coat for travel
trench coat
designed originally as a British military officer's coat; many straps & metal rings used for carrying weapons
men's neckwear
four-in-hand, bow ties (for day & evening), scarves, ascots, stocks
four-in-hand ties
1917-1918 wide, flamboyant floral & paisley patterns & brightly striped silks
Louis Cartier
introduced the writstwatch
blucher
lower cut laced shoes
oxfords
low lace shoes worn by students at Oxford University;
derby hat/bowler
dome shaped derby hat in black or brown, later in light brown, leading style
2 types of felt hats
homburg & fedora; slimmed down brims
fedora
softer felt, more casual
sailor hats
stiff, coarse straw; predominated for summer
panama straw hats
low crowns & medium to wide brims
high silk hat
daytime occasion but declining in use
collapsible silk opera hat
formal evenings
informal city & country hat wear
made of woven fabric, especially camel's hair or tweed
women's silhouette in early 20th century
went from S-shaped to more tubular then to hip width to a tent shape & back to tubular
S-shaped
large, protuding bosom; often exaggerated by padding or ruffles underneath
tub gowns, wash gowns, lingerie frocks
made of washable fabrics, often white; designed for home wear, especially for informal evenings & summer & southern climates
sleeves in 1900
sometimes slightly puffed at the top but usually narrow overall;shoulders began to widen
women's silhouette in 1902
soft & billowy w/layers & rows of ruffles in lightweight fabrics
use of belts & cummerbunds in 1905
marked the waistlines; belts were higher in back than in front, sometimes pointed at center front
princess gown
fitted smoothly without a break or belt at the waistline
Empire effects
suggesting high waistlines
tea gown
afternoon entertaining at home; usually of white, filmy material falling loosely from a ribbon or band at several inches above the natural waistline
daytime skirt lengths
sweep, floor length at front & sides while trailing on the ground in back, round length: floor length all around,walking length:about two inches above the ground
evening gowns 1900-1908
had trains
daytime clothing 1900-1908
high necklines (some came to the chin supported by wire or celluloid),evening gowns low
tubular silhouette
replaced S-bend by 1912
hobble skirts
too narrow at the hemline for women walk normally in 1910
sleeves of tubular gowns
for evening & warm weather: elbow length;
tubular gown
cuts were extremely complex & had various free hanging panels, draped effects, & layered tunics embellished the silhouette
couturier
ladies tailor
couture
sewing, needlework, seam
couturer
to seam
couturiere
dressmaker, seamstress
mark de mode
mode=fashion
mark de luxe
what stays when fashion goes; a true brand cant got RTW because it loses the luxe