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40 Cards in this Set

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Q: What is the difference between the shore and the coast?
A: The coast is the zone affected by near shore processes. The shore is the line where ocean meets land.
H: Zone vs. Line
Q: What is an example of something that can change of the shape of the coast?
A: Wave erosion, sediment transport, local isostasy, etc.
Physical changing
Q: What can change the location of the coast?
A: Sea Level Change
H: Can submerge or “emerge” shorelines
Q: What are 2 types of sea level variations that can occur?
A: Global & Local
Q: What are 3 types of global effects that can change the sea level?
A: 1 – Sea floor spreading rates
2 – Global ice volume changes (Ice Ages)
3 – Global temperature variations (Global warming for example)
Involve temperature & water...globally...
Q : What are 2 types of local effects that can change the sea level?
A: 1 – Faults, warping
2 – Isostatic Adjustment (Change in seawater volume or ocean basin capacity)
Q: What are 2 types of coasts?
A: Erosional & Depositional (Slowly grow because of accumulation of sediments)
H: Southern CA gets it all & Northern CA loses it
Q: What are 6 features of erosional coasts?
A: Sea caves (form at base of cliffs from relentless wave pounding), sea cliffs (due to undercutting), headlands (formed by strongest material), coves, sea stacks (once tops of sea arches), uplifted marine terrace (gently sloping, caused by uplift of wave-cut beach)
Q: What is shore straightening?
A: The straightening of shorelines caused by increased erosions of headlands from wave refraction
Everyday occurrence with waves
Q: What is the common outlook for a depostitional coast?
A: Typically sediments, not rocky; wide beaches are common
Light wave activity
Q: What are 4 features of depostitional coasts?
A: 1- Spit (Linear ridge of sediment extended in direction of longshore drift that curves into mouth of bay due to currents)
2 - Tombolo (Sand ridge connecting island/sea-stack to mainland)
3 - Barrier islands (long offshore deposits of sand parallel to wave crests)
4 - Delta (Back up of sediment deposition at mouth of flowing river causes finger-like distributaries that eventually fill up with more sediment, making a “bird’s foot” shape if seen from above [foot faces the ocean] )
Q: Erosional coasts can become depositional coasts in cases of?
A: Tectonic activity/ Sea Level Change wanes
Physical change that may cause runoff...
Q: The shore is divided into what 2 zones, followed by what 2 shore-like zones?
A: (From coast outward) Backshore (beyond high tide to coastline), Foreshore (low tide to high tide), Nearshore (To the breaker line), Offshore
Q: What are longshore bars?
A: Sand bars parallel to the coast that can cause waves to break. A longshore trough seperates it from the beach face
Q: What is the berm and the beach face?
A: The berm is the dry, gently sloping dune regions of the coast.
The beach face is the wet, sloping surface extending from the berm to the shoreline.
H: One is the suntanning area of the beach and the other is where sand crabs are found.
Q: Waves that break at the shore move sand in which direction?
A: Perpendicular to the shore
Q: What is the difference between light wave activity and heavy wave activity?
A: The transportational energy of the waves.
- Light wave activity (Swash > Backwash) has net movement of sand up the beach face toward the berm.
Heavy wave activity (Backwash > Swash) has net movement down the beach face into longshore bars; works by storing swash on top of incoming wave so beach is protected from swash & feels more eroding of backwash.
H: Has relationship with the movement of differently sized sediments.
Q: What is the relationship between swash and backwash?
A: Swash is water from breaking wave that absorbs into beach while backwash is the water that drains back into the ocean.
H: Inversely Proportional
Q: What is the difference between a summertime beach and a wintertime beach?
A: Summertime beaches are formed by light wave activity (wide sandy berm & steep beach face) while wintertime beaches are formed by heavy wave activity (narrow rocky berm, flat beach face & large longshore bars)
H: Long, low-energy waves vs. Short, high-energy waves
Q: Why do swimmers find themselves farther away from where they initially entered the water?
A: Zigzag movement of sediment caused by refracted waves hitting beach at an angle and backwash pulling straight back into the longshore current is a process recognized as longshore drift.
H: Longcat is looooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooong
Q: The beach is the “river of sand” because?
A: Rivers and coastal zones move water AND sediment upstream to downstream
Rivers are constantly moving...
Q: What are 5 features of a barrier island?
A: 1- Ocean beach (summertime & wintertime)
2 - dunes (formed from wind-blown sands; protects lagoon from excessive flooding during high tides)
3 - barrier flat (formed from storm-driven sand, storm-driven seawater, and grasses; grasses can actually GROW if storms happen infrequently enough)
4 - high to low salt marsh
5 - lagoon
H: Found along passive, depositional margins
Q: What are the 3 parts of that make up a beach compartment?
A:
1- A series of rivers that supply sand to a beach
2 - the beach itself where sand is moving away due to longshore transport
3 - offshore submarine canyons where sand is drained away from the beach
H: Supplier, mover, and transporter
Q: What causes beach starvation?
A: Human activity (dams) that block the “suppliers” for a beach compartment
Q: What are the 2 types of beach currents?
A: Longshore currents (run parallel to beach) and rip currents (waves pile up water on the beach & jet it back out to the ocean)
H: If you’re caught in one, swim parallel to the beach
Q: Eustatic means?
A: Worldwide
Q: Is there more erosion along the Pacific Coast, the Gulf Coast, or the Atlantic Coast?
A: Atlantic Coast
H: Erosion rates can depend on wave exposure, amount of uplift, and type of bedrock.
Q: What is hard stabilization?
A: Structures are built to protect a coast from erosion or to prevent the movement of sand along a beach
Q: What does a groin do as a hard stabilization?
A: Built perpendicular to coastline in order to trap longshore transported sand on its upstream side (new shoreline made against it) & as a result, erosion occurs downstream of the groin (no sand can pile there)
Q: How do you lessen the erosion caused by a groin?
A: ‘Build a new one!’ times infinity => Makes a groin field
H: Differently distributed sand
Q: What does a jetty do as a hard stabilization?
A: Protects harbor entrances from waves & only SECONDILY traps sand. Built in closely spaced pairs; cause more upstream deposition & downstream erosion than groins do (b/c longer)
Q: What are 4 common types of artificial hard stabilizations?
A: Seawalls, breakwaters, groins, jetties
Q: What does a breakwater do as a hard stabilization?
A: Built parallel to the shore; traps sand behind it (abnormal deposition) but causes unwanted erosion downstream
Q: What can be done to fix erosion issues caused by operation of breakwaters?
A: Dredging of trapped sand from the breakwater.
H: Man must provide the energy needed to replace what they have misdirected through modification of the shore environment
Q: What does a seawall do as a hard stabilization?
A: Built to armor a coast & protect landward developments from ocean waves. Destroyed eventually by wave pounding and causes mass erosion to beach behind it due to steepened beach slope
H: Really bad real estate
Q: What 2 techniques of hard stabilization can be categorized as ‘Redirecting of Longshore Transport’?
A: Groins, Jetties
Q: What 2 techniques of hard stabilization can be categorized as ‘Redirecting of Wave Energy’?
A: Breakwaters, Seawalls
Q: Explain the relationship of Humanity and the Coasts.
A: People build by the beach, the beach moves, and people try to keep the beach from moving
We're stupid and selfish creatures
Q: What are 4 examples of estuaries?
A: Drowned river valleys, fjords, bar-built & tectonic controlled
H: Estuaries are semi-enclosed bodies containing a mix of seawater & freshwater usually found in areas of high productivity
Q: What are 3 alternatives to hard stabilization?
A: 1 - Construction restrictions in coastal eroision areas
2 - beach nourishment (very expensive, temporary; artificial dumping of sand into area of erosion)
3 - relocation (successfully protects coastal structures)
Essentially don't build there!~