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Standardized Inca Checkerboard Tunic (pg. 233)
Late Horizon
Army uniform
Epitomizes Inca graphic, bold, and minimalstic style
Fig. 2, pg. 127 Bandelier Article
uses of textiles:
1. record keeping (quipu)
2. showing status - common folk = cotton, llama ; royalty = alpaca, bat fur, feathers, vicuna
3. ethnicity, gender
4. diplomatic gesture
5. sacrifices and rituals
6. clothed people, gods, sacrificial and sacred objects, and the Earth itself
Inca Royal Tunic (pg. 232)
Tocapu = King's robes
Covered with tocapus (geometric patterns)
Army pattern is seen within the mix showing the king's absolute power over conquest forces
Does not keep with standard Inca unit of 10
and has random motifs --> shows that the king was above the law and society because the king is "divine"
Fig. 18, pg. 147 Bandelier Article
Inca textile aesthetics:
1. color
2. repeated imagery - geometric forms alternating with unadorned areas, abstract, no figuration, motifs restricted - 2 or 3 per cloth
3. areas most decorated: waist, neck, lower border
4. design unit = 10 - standard unit for all Inca textiles (except Tocapu)
[similar to] Fig. 16, pg. 143 Bandelier Article
Colonial change in design:
1. aggrandizement - increase in Inca status symbols, inclusion of European motifs within traditional design
2. standardization relaxed - more variety, individuality, area of textile previously unadorned are now patterned (lots of patterns!)
3. Tocapu added everywhere, even on the side of embroidery
4. addition to figurative images
5. motifs scattered, no longer in a grid
6. checkerboard and key motifs abandoned
7. European image inclusion is selective and based on pre-colonial ideas
8. colors are more vibrant
9. superficial overlay of colonial influence and design
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