Coastal Hazards

Front 1

Erosion is beneficial. (T/F)

Back 1

True.

The Nitrogen, Phosphorous etc that is introduced into the waters from erosion provides nutrients to the waters.

Front 2

Shoreline form is controlled by

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

Back 2

Shoreline form is controlled by

1. Materials/ strength

2. Shape of coastline --> Straight/ contoured

3. Relief --> Cliffs/beach

4. Bottom profile --> is flat or sloping

5. Tide (micro, meso, macro)

Front 3

__ is the depth at which wave motion is negligible.

Back 3

Wave Base

Front 4

This is defines as *wavelength*/2 is a formula that means______.

Back 4

The depth to which a wave will erode.

Front 5

Wave energy, wave height, wave length, wave period describe the size and movement of a wave. (T/F)

Back 5

True

Front 6

When waves start to interact with the bottom, they start to deform (Grow in height and eventually break) (T/F)

Back 6

True

Front 7

A wave has a ______ motion.

Back 7

Circular

Front 8

Waves break because they ______.

Back 8

Feel bottom, which causes them to "fall" overtop of one and other.

Front 9

Where would a headland and a bedland be on this picture?

Back 9

There would be a headland on the left bottom corner, a bedland in the middle (where its deep), a headland on the bottom rght corner

Front 10

___ is the distance over which wind can generate waves.

Back 10

Fetch

Front 11

___ Are waves that take a long time to pass through a cycle (*wavelength*). They are produced by tidal effect and really big storms.

Back 11

Long period waves

Front 12

___ are less than 10 seconds. They are very short, but long wavelength- a tsunami generated

Back 12

Short period waves

Front 13

In a rogue wave, energy is injected into the wave by ____.

Back 13

Destructive interference

Front 14

Wave ___ can result in constructive interference and can result in unusually large waves.

Back 14

Wave reflection

Front 15

Wave _____ can also focus or dissipate wave energy.

Back 15

Wave refraction

Front 16

Wave refraction occurs once the wave begins to "feel bottom" (T/F)

Back 16

True

Front 17

___ Is the shape of the bottom of the ocean floor.

Back 17

Thimetry

Front 18

Erosion is created on the bedland. (T/F)

Back 18

False

Errosion is created on the headland.

Front 19

What happens to a wave when it hits bottom?

Back 19

Say to is 5 m deep. It feels bottom and refracts toward the headland, and is then dissipated to the beach.

Front 20

___ Is one of the most important coastal landforms. It must be in environment conductive to build up of sediment. This is probably directly related to seal level rise and availability of sediment needed to be reworked during sea level rise (Transgression)

Back 20

Barrier Island

Front 21

Wave energy associated primarily with storms results in the landward transportation of beach sediment: Wave dominated Barriers migrate landward. (T/F)

Back 21

True

This is done through washover deposits. (Through time, the whole thing will eventually attach itself to land. The only thing we can do to "reset the clock" and change this migration is through sea level change, which is done through glacial age.)

Front 22

Barrier islands are important because they provide protection for the water and land inshore from waves, because they are the first line of defines against the sea. (T/F)

Back 22

True

Front 23

We should build on barrier beaches. (T/F)

Back 23

False.

Front 24

Dispersion of energy produces wave cut cliffs and wave cut platforms --> nature of coastline dramatically affects the beach material + availability of sediment (T/F)

Back 24

True

Front 25

_______ and ______ are common shoreline materials in Nova Scotia.

Back 25

Drumlins: which are made of soft sediment with a large range in size

Granite: Which is well jointed, but it weathers easily.

Front 26

From the geometry of the ____ and ___ landforms, we should be able to understand:

1)

2)

3)

4)

5)

Back 26

1) Directions of longshore drift

2) Bottom morphology

3) Where erosion is taking place

4) Where deposition is taking place

5) How we will/ can affect the system

Front 27

Construction of seawalls is an effective longterm solution to preventing costal and beach erosion. (T/F)

Back 27

False.

Construction of seawalls to prevent costal erosion and protect buildings commonly cause beach erosion.

(The seawall reflects storm waves and reduces the supply of sediment to the beach.)

Front 28

_____ Indicates that wave energy must be oriented for a prolonged diastase at an angle to the beach (Think of it as a conveyor belt system)

Back 28

Longshore drift.

Front 29

Longshore drift is dependent on:
1)

2)

3)

Back 29

Longshore drift is dependent on:
1) Size of wave

2) Angle of beach

3) Sediment size on beach

Front 30

In longshore drift, sediment goes inland (T/F)

Back 30

True

Front 31

Hurricanes are associated with fronts. (T/F)

Back 31

False

Hurricanes are NOT associated with fronts

(They are high winds, big low pressure systems)

Front 32

_______ and waves are the most damaging effect along coastlines.

Back 32

Storm surges

-Can increase sea level by up to 7 m

- Most susceptible areas are low-lying coasts, especially in bays

Front 33

All aspects of hurricanes are bad. (T/F)

Back 33

False

They can end a drought

Front 34

Wave height, wave length, wave period describe the size, and movement of a wave. (T/F)

Back 34

?

Front 35

Fetch is the distance over which wind can generate waves (T/F)

Back 35

True

Front 36

At a depth of *Wavelength*/2, a wave..

a) Begins to feel bottom

b) Starts to erode

c) Begins to break

d) All of a, b, c

e) b and c

Back 36

?

Front 37

Wave height and wave length describe the size and movement of a wave. (T/F)

Back 37

?

Front 38

Rogue waves can be produced by...

a) Destructive interference

b) Changes in ocean bottom profile

c) Landslides into the ocean

d) All of the above

e) None of the above

Back 38

I think it is c?

Front 39

Wave reflection (refraction!) can cause both concentration and dissipation of wave energy (T/F)

Back 39

?

Front 40

Wave dominated barriers migrate landward. (T/F)

Back 40

True

Front 41

Wave cut cliffs and barrier beaches are both features that are common on erosional coastlines (T/F)

Back 41

True ?

Front 42

tropical cyclones typically...

a) Form over both land and water

b) have wind speeds of at least 30 km/h

c) Form over oceans warmer than 26 Celcius

d) Form only in the northern hemisphere

e) Are associates with areas of high pressure.

Back 42

c)

Front 43

Hurricanes are a serious threat...

a) To the Atlantic coast of Canada

b) To the Pacific Coast of Canada

c) To any coastal region

d) To only regions between 5 and 20 latidude

e) Only in the summer months

Back 43

a) ?

Front 44

Cyclones are classified by their intensity which is indicated by ...

a) Winds speed and damage

b) Temperature and wind speed

c) Atmospheric pressure and temperature

d) Temperature

e) Death toll

Back 44

?