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119 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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Name three types of darts
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Plain or single end dart
Contour dart French dart |
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Name three types of pleats
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Knife pleats
Inverted pleats Box pleats |
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Name four types of tucks
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Plain tucks
Spaced tucks Pin tucks Dart tucks |
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What is the purpose of disposal of fullness?
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To provide shape to a garment
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Define plain darts
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Builds a definite shape into a flat piece of fabric to fit the contour of the body, take away fullness at the wide end and give fullness at the end.
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How are plain darts made?
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Transfer the markings to wrong side of fabric
Fold dart through centre, match and pin corresponding pattern marks Start from wide side, stitching towards the point Knot the thread at the end Press dart |
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What are plain darts used for?
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Take away fullness at the bust, waist, hips and shoulders
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What types of garments are plain darts suitable for?
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Blouses, skirts and dresses
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Define contour darts
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A long dart that fits the waistline and tapers off into two opposite directions fit the bust and hips
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How do you create contour darts?
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Transfer markings to wrong side of fabric
fold dart through centre, match and pin corresponding pattern marks Stitch towards the middle from the point side with a slight curve, continue to point End off with a knot Press dart |
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What are contour darts used for?
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Take away fullness in a one-piece dress
At waist of one-piece dress, jackets and coats |
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Define French darts
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A dart extending diagonally from the side seam waist or hip area to the bust.
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How does a french dart differ from other types of dart?
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Both the shoulder and waist dart are closed, giving a very wide dart.
Seam allowances used instead of a wide dart fold. |
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How do you make a french dart?
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Transfer markings to wrong side
Put right sides together, match and pin the seam allowances of the dart with seam lines on one another. Stitch from wide end to point Finish off edge of seam allowances End off with a knot Press dart |
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What are the uses of a french dart?
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Garments with dart out of side seam at waist or hip area
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What garments are suitable for french darts?
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One piece dresses
Jackets Coats |
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How do you do gathering?
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Set stitch length longer than usual
Make two rows of gathering stitches both sides of the stitching line |
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What are gathers used for?
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Take away fullness at shoulders,
waistline, hipline and sleevehead |
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How do you set gathers into a closed seam?
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Make two rows of gathering stitches both sides of the stitching line.
Take up two threads on the same side and pull in the amount required to fit the other piece Place right sides of gathering and straight piece together. Stitch on stitching line Trim seam allowance to 1cm, finish off edges together Press seam |
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What are gathers set into a closed seam used for?
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To set puffed sleeves in an armhole
To join a gathered skirt and bodice. |
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How do you set gathers into a lapped seam?
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Make two rows of gathering stitches both sides of the stitching line.
Take up two threads on the same side and pull in the amount required to fit other piece. Fold the seam allowance of the upper garment, to the wrong side, with stitching line on the fold. Place the stitching line (fold) of the upper garment on the stitching line of the gathered piece Stitch on the right side of the garment close to the fold to form a lapped seam. Trim seam allowance 1cm, finish off the edges, together Press seams |
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What are gathers set into a lapped seam used for?
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Join a gathered skirt and bodice
Join a gathered bodice and shoulder yoke in a dress or blouse |
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How are gathers set into an enclosed seam?
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Make two rows of gathering stitches both sides of stitching line.
Take up two threads on same side and pull amount required to fit other piece. Finish off sides of band Place right side of band against gathers Stitch on stitching line Trim and grade seam Fold block to wrong side, turn in seam allowances and finish by hand (hemming stitch) or machine (stitch in the ditch) |
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What are gathers set into an enclosed seam used from?
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Finish off sleeve edge at wrist with a cuff
Finish off skirt waistline with a band |
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What are knife pleats?
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Foldlines turned in one direction.
They have one foldline and one placement line |
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What are box pleats?
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The two folds of each pleat are turned away from one another.
Has two foldlines and two placement lines. |
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What are inverted pleats?
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The two foldlines of each pleat are turned towards each other and must meet.
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Define pleats
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Folds in fabric that provide controlled fullness.
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Define foldline
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The specified line along which pleats are folded.
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Define the placement line
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The specific line with which the foldline of a pleat is aligned
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Where should pleats be stitched?
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At the top to another section of the garment or into a band.
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What grain should a pleat be folded on?
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The straight of the fabric
or the bias |
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How is the seaming of a garment containing pleats done?
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Fold and tack pleats before side seams are stitched.
If joining in a pleat section complete seaming before section is pleated. |
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How are pleats on the straight of the fabric folded?
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Fold straight to a lengthwise thread along entire length.
For smaller figures fold the pleats deeper above the hipline |
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How is marking of pleats done when a pattern is used?
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Transferred from pattern to fabric when garment cut out
Carefully matched when pleats are folded and tacked |
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How is marking of pleats done when no pattern is used?
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Carefully measured
Marked on fabric with pins then fold and tacked |
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How are pleats pressed?
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Damp cloth over a dry one
Avoid pressing over tacking threads because they will leave marks Do not press at hemline before hem completed and pressed |
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When knife pleats are used on an entirely pleated skirt, what direction must the pleats be folded?
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From right to left so a pleat will cover the placket.
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How does the stitching of inverted pleats differ from the stitching of box pleats?
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Inverted pleats - stitched near centre-folds on front
Box pleats - stitched on two outer folds of the front |
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What is a plain tuck?
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One stitch fold in fabric
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What is the purpose of a plain tuck?
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Decorative
Shaping |
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What is a tuck's width?
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Distance from the fold to the stitching line
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What is a blind tuck?
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When more than one tuck meet
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What is a spaced tuck?
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More than one tuck with spaces between them
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What is a pin tuck?
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A very narrow tuck
Can be more than one |
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What is a shell tuck?
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A small tuck with handstitch (over hand stitches at intervals) or machine stitched (blind hemming) done over it.
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What is another name for a corded tuck?
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Piped tuck
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What is a corded tuck?
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Tuck is folded with a cord inside along the fold.
Use a zipper foot to stitch close to the cord |
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What is another name for a dart tuck?
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Released tuck
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What is a dart tuck?
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Stitched folds in the garment to take away fullness and at the same time give fullness on the end or on both ends.
It can be stitched on the grain or in a curve. It can be formed on the outside or on the inside of the garment. Stitches must be reinforced at ends |
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What are dart tucks used for?
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To control fullness and then release it at a desired point
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How are cross tucks formed?
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First stitch lengthwise tucks
Press in one direction Form the crosswise tucks, setting them at right-angles to the first. Take care to keep the first set of tucks facing downwards |
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How do you stitch a slight ease?
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Pin longer side onto shorter seam so fullness is distributed evenly.
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How do you stitch a moderate ease?
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Make a machine gathering stitch
Hold fullness with pins in position before stitching |
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What is ease stitching used for?
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Along back side of a shoulder seam
At elbow position instead of a dart Over but area in princess style lines |
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Name four functional seams
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Single seams
French seams Run and Fell seams Single lapped seam |
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Name three single seams
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Open seam
closed seam Enclosed seam |
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What is another name for a run and fell seam
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Flat felled seam
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Name two tailored seams
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Lapped seam
Tucked seam |
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Name three decorative seams
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Slot seam
Fagotted seam Piped seam |
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What is a seam?
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A seam is made when two or more pieces of material are joined together.
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What does the width and finishing of a seam depend on?
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Type of fabric,
garment and seam |
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What are the characteristics of a good seam?
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Seams must be
strong, neat, equal width, not pull after completion, as invisible as possible on right side ; carefully pressed on wrong side when completed |
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What are the 8 quality standards for seam?
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All stitching and thread quality standards
Matching thread, or contrast thread colourfast No loose threads All plies of fabric caught into stitching All seam ends secured by back-stitching Type of seam suites type of garment and position on garment Seam width must suite type of seam and be even Raw edges finished off according to specific seam used |
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What are single open seams used for?
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Side seam of skirt
Shoulder seams of jackets, coats and dresses |
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What fabrics are single open seams used for?
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Thick
Non-transparent Washable and non-washable fabric |
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What fabric types are single open seams used for?
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Cotton
linen wool (tweed and flannel) viscose rayon polyester-cotton |
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What are single closed seams used for?
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Curved seams like :Armhole seams ; Waistline seams
Horizontal running steams Princess line seams Shaped yoke seams Crotch seams of trousers without zippers Seams in pleats |
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What fabrics are suitable for single closed seams?
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Any
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What are enclosed seams?
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Seams where the seam allowance is covered with a facing or inside of the garment construction
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What are enclosed seams used for?
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collar seams
Cuff seams Waistbands Double bands or belts Attaching facing or bindings Centre front and back openings |
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What fabrics are suitable for enclosed seams?
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Any
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What is a French seam?
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A self-enclosed seam in which all seam allowances are contained within the finished seam, avoiding the necessity of a separate seam finish.
This seam is stitched twice, once on the right side and once on the wrong side. |
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What is the finishing width of a French seam?
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6mm
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What are French seams used for?
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Underwear
Nightwear Blouses Garments of transparent fabrics Children's wear |
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What fabrics are suitable for French seams?
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Light to medium weight fabrics
Soft to sheer fabrics Transparent fabrics |
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What fabric types can French seams be used on?
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Georgette
Voile Chiffon Cotton Cotton blends |
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What is a flat-felled seam?
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A sturdy seam formed on the right side.
It is decorative, showing two stitches on the right side of the garment. |
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What are flat-felled seams used for?
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Garments worn against the skin
Garments subject to hard wearing and laundering Sports clothing |
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What fabrics are suitable for flat-felled seams?
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Light weight cotton
Denim |
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Where are fagotted seams used?
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Blouses
Dresses Guardian dresses |
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What types of fabrics are suitable for fagotted seams?
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Light weight fabrics
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What types of fabrics are fagotted seams used on?
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Cotton
Chiffon Voile |
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How are piped seams stitched?
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Mark seam lines
Pin and tack the piping to the right side of one seam allowance. Align piping stitching line with seamline, and piping raw edge to raw edge of seamline. With zipper foot to the right of needle, stitch to the left of piping stitching line Place seam allowances with right sides together and piping in between. Using original stitching as a guide, stitch through all layers, press. Trim and grade seams if required Finish raw edges |
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Where are piped seams used?
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Tailored garments where seams need to be emphasized
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What fabrics are suitable for piped seams?
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Light-
Medium- and heavy-weight fabrics |
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What types of fabrics are piped seams used on?
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Cotton
Linen Wool |
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How is a tucked seam stitched?
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Mark seam lines
Fold under one seam allowance and press Folded edge on top, match seamlines and tack through all thicknesses Stitch on right side 6 - 8mm from fold Press seam on wrong side Trim both seam allowances to 10cm and finish raw edge together |
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What are tucked seams used for?
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Tailored garments where seams need to be emphasized
Hold gathers in yokes Waistline seams of gathered dresses Curved / shaped seams |
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What fabrics are suitable for tucked seams?
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Light-
Medium- and heavy-weight fabrics Never transparent |
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What types of fabrics are tucked seams used on?
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Cotton
Linen Wool (Tweed or trevira) |
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How are slot seams stitched?
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Mark seam lines
Machine tack on seamline with right sides together. No backstitching and clip bobbin threads every fifth stitch Press seam open Cut a 4cm wide underlay Centre underlay under seam and tack in position Topstitch an equal distance from the centre on each side of the first stitch. Pull out tacking thread and press |
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Where are slot seams used?
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Tailored garments where seams emphasized
Side seams of trousers |
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What fabrics are suitable for slot seams?
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Light-
and medium-weight fabrics |
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What types of fabrics are slot seams used for?
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Cotton
Linen |
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How are single lapped seams stitched?
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Mark seam lines
Lap one edge over the other with seamlines meeting in centre Stitch row of straight stitching on either side of seamline Stitch wide zigzag through centre on seamlines Trim both seam allowances close to the stitching |
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When are single lapped seams used?
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Eliminate bulk
In interfacings: on centre back under collar, at vent corners, when joining interfacing strips. |
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What fabrics are suitable for single lapped seams?
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Medium weight interfacing fabrics
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What types of fabrics are single lapped seams used on?
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Horse hair
Non-iron-on interfacings |
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What are lapped seams also known as?
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Tailored seam
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How are lapped seams stitched?
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Mark seam line
Fold under one seam allowance, press With folded edge on top, match seamlines and tack through all thickness Stitch on right side close to fold Press seam on wrong side Trim both seam allowances to 10cm and finish raw edge together |
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What are lapped seams used for?
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Tailored garments where seams emphasized
Hold gathers in yokes Waistline seams of gathered dresses Curved / shaped seams |
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What fabrics are suitable for lapped seams?
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Light-
Medium- and heavy-weight fabrics Never transparent fabrics |
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What types of fabrics can be used for lapped seams?
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Cotton
Linen Wool (tweed or trevira) |
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What does trimming mean?
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Cutting away some of the seam allowance
Done with the full width of seam allowance Seams first trimmed to half their width before grading. |
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What does grading mean?
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Cutting of seam allowances to different widths?
Seams forming an edge or are enclosed must be graded. Results in a seam that lies flat without leaving a bulky edge. |
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What is meant by trimming of corners?
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Done at enclosed seams
Cut across the point and then cut towards the corners as close to stitches as possible. About 3mm |
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What is clipping?
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Cutting slits into seam allowances.
Done on concave or inward curves so that their seams lie flat and smooth |
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What is notching?
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Wedges are cut from a seam allowance on convex curves so that the seam lies flat and smooth
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Which side of the seam allowance is the widest when grading?
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Seam allowance nearest the garment side is widest
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How do you stitch a a single open seam?
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Seam allowance of 1.5cm
Place fabric together with right sides facing, with edges together Pin and tack seam on fitting line Stitch seam on fitting line Remove tacking Open turnings and press seam flat on wrong side so seam perfectly flat at stitching line |
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How do you stitch a single closed seam?
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Seam allowance of 1.5cm
Place fabric together with right sides facing, with edges together Pin and tack seam on fitting line Stitch seam on fitting line Remove tacking Open turnings and press seam edges together and press neatly in same direction Take care seam perfectly flat at line of stitching |
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What is a run-and-fell seam
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A neat, strong seam that stands up to constant laundering.
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Where is a run-and-fell seam used?
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Hand-sewn underwear and nightwear
Babies clothes |
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How wide is a completed run-and-fell seam?
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About 5mm
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What is the seam allowance needed for run-and-fell seam?
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10 mm
or 15 mm for easily fraying fabric |
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How is a run-and-fell seam stitched?
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Place 2 pieces together, right sides outside
Stitch on fitting line Trim frayed edges and turn back section down to 3mm Cut other part down to 10mm Press seam open Fold down 5mm of 10mm seam allowance to inside Fold 5mm over narrow seam allowance Tack and stitch on fold with edge stitching Press neatly side showing two rows of stitching is right side |
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What are advantages of a French seam?
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Strong seam
Very neat seam No frayed edges are exposed on right side and wrong side No edge finishes |
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How are French seams stitched?
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Place two pieces together with wrong side facing each other. Ensure edges are level
Tack 5 - 6 mm above tacking line Stitch immediately below tacking, remove tacking Trim edges so 3mm wide seam left Press open and turn garment to wrong side Flatten seam along stitching line, pin and tack fitting-line so raw edges encased. Stitch immediately below tacking on wrong side and remove tacking. Press flat to one side. |
