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19 Cards in this Set

  • Front
  • Back

Why do people live near the coast?

Population centers, aesthetics

Western US Coastline

Active margins, plate tectonic activity, dramatic coastlines with cliffs and steep drop offs.

Eastern US Coastline

Passive margins, no plate tectonic activity, extensive beaches, shallow drop offs.

Beaches

Sedimentary deposit at water/land interface.

Waves, winds, and streams.

Forces of erosion and deposition.


Waves

Movement of wind across the ocean surface, water molecules grows smaller with depth, wave "breaks" as water shallows and orbits feel the bottom.

Wave erosion

Mechanical from pounding of breakers. Milling/abrasion: material propelled by waves. Chemical from dissolution of rock.

Bulging of the water at Earth's surface due to:

Earth's rotational velocity, gravitational pull of moon, gravitational pull of sun.

Spring tides

Gravitational pull of sun and moon in unison

Neap tides

Gravitational pull of sun and moon perpendicular

Long term effects on sea water level

Glaciation (transfer of water between ocean and ice), tectonics, groundwater extraction and oil extraction.

Evidence of sea level change

Wave cut platforms on rocky shores. Drowned valleys and fjords.

Longshore current and littoral drift

Component of water and sediment movement is along the beach.

Groins

Human effort to stabilize beach at certain location, mitigate effect of longshore drift, modification of natural profile.

Deposition

Occurs where water locally slows down.


Erosion

Occurs where sediment load capacity locally increases.

Beach restoration efforts

Many failures from natural erosion and improper choice of mineralogy for replacement sand.

Cliff erosion

Removal of sediment at/under waterline is undercutting and swift erosion.

Wave refraction

Focuses energy on headlands/protrusions tendency to flatten out coastal profile.