Chapter 6 Cosmetic Chemistry

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Cosmetics

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"articles that are intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance."

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Functional Ingredients

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ingredients in cosmetice products that allow the products to spread, give them body and texture, and give them a specific form such as lotion, cream, or gel.

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Performance Ingredients

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ingredients in cosmetic products that cause the actual changes in the appearance of the skin.

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Cosmeceuticals

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products intended to improve the skin's health and appearance.

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Anhydrous

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products that do not contain any water.

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Emollients

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cosmetic ingredients that are almost always fatty agents; can act as either vehicles or performance ingredients.

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Occlusion

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technique of moisturizing by placing a layer of emollient over the skin in order to keep natural moisture from escaping from the epidermis.

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Fatty Acids

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lubricant ingredients derived from plant oils or animal fats; they are not irrataing.

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Fatty Alcohols

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fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen; they are not drying.

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Fatty Esters

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emollients produced from fatty acids and alcohols.

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Silicones

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group of mineral-based substances used in cosmetics as lightweight emollients or vehicles.

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Comedogenicity

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tendency of any topical substance to cause or to worsen a buildup of dead cells in the follicle, leading to the development of a comedo(blackhead).

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Detergent

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main type of surfactant used in skin care products.

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Emulsifiers

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surfactant that keeps oils and water blended in a product.

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Oil Soluble

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compatible with oil.

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Water Soluble

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mixable with water.

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Carbomers

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vehicle ingredients added to thicken products or to help suspend ingredients that are hard to mix into a product.

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Aromatherapy Oils (essential oils)

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frequently used in skin care products; highly concentrated plant oils that possess properties that have various effects on the skin and can be used to relax or stimulate the client's mood.

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Antioxidants

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substances that inhibit oxidation or reactions promoted by oxygen or peroxides.

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Certified Colors

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inorganic color agents also known as metal salts; listed on ingredient labels as D&C(drug and cosmetic).

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Lakes

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common term for certified colors.

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Noncertified colors

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organic color agents.

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Hydrators (humectants or hydrophilic agents)

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ingredients that actually attract water to the skin's surface.

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Delivery Systems

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chemical techniques using vehicles to make productswork.

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Liposomes

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wehicles that transfer important ingredients such as hydrators, antioxidants, or alphahydroxy acids to the skin by slowly dissolving them over time.

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Polymers

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advanced vehicles that release substances onto the skin's surface at microscopically controlled rate.

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Polyglucans

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ingredients derived from yeast cells that help stregthen the immune system and stimulate the metabolism; they are also hydrophilic and help preseve and protect collagen and elastin.

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Beta-glucans

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ingredients used in anti-aging cosmetics to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating the formation of collagen.

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Tissue Respiratory Factor(TRF)

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ingredient derived from yeast cells that functions as an anti-inflammatory and moisturizing ingredient.

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Glycoproteins (glycopolypeptides)

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yeast cell derivatives that enhance cellular metabolism, which boosts oxygen uptake in the cell.

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Coenzyme Q10

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powerful antioxidant protects and revitalizes skin cells.

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Setting Masks

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masks that harden and dry after a few minutes of exposure to air; used for cleansing, removing surface dead cells, and absorbing sebum.

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Nonsetting Masks

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primarily moisturizing and soothing masks that do not harden or dry.

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Serums

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user-friendly versions of ampoules, intended for a specific corrective treatment used day and night for 30 to 60 days or more.