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10 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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A wave that cannot “feel” the bottom is a ________________. |
Deep-water wave |
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Be able to determine deep water and shallow water waves. |
Deep -period to about 20 seconds -wavelength to about 600 meters -speed to about 112 km/hr Shallow -period to about 20 minutes -wavelength about 200 kilometers -speed to about 760 km/hr |
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Define capillary, wind, seiche, tsunami, and tide. |
Capillary: form from wind friction stretching water surface... restoring force is cohesion of H20 molecules... typical wavelength up to 1.73 cm Wind: caused by wind over ocean... restoring force is gravity Seiche: water in a confined space sloshes back and forth... caused by change in atmospheric pressure... restoring force is gravity Tsunami: long-wavelength, shallow-water progressive waves caused by rapid displacement in ocean water... restoring force is gravity Tide: caused by earth's rotation and gravitational attraction... restoring force is gravity |
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What are the factors necessary to make large wind waves? |
They remain in water deeper than 1/2 its wavelength, the wind continues to blow, and the wave becomes larger |
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Wind is the disturbing force for what kind of waves? |
Wind waves |
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What is the relationship between wavelength and velocity? |
The higher the speed and wavelength, the higher the velocity |
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What is a wave train? |
Progressing groups of swell with the same origin and wavelength |
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How fast does a wave train move with respect to the individual waves in the train? |
Wave trains move at half the speed of individual waves in the group |
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What is the ratio that waves will break in the open ocean? |
1:7 |
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What causes a rogue wave? |
When crests occur at one position and a huge wave erupts as a result |
