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11 Cards in this Set

  • Front
  • Back
Three factors that affect the height of a wind-formed wave
1. wind speed
2. length of time the wind blows
3. the fetch
What is wavelength?
length between crests
What is crest?
a wave's highest point
What is the trough?
a wave's lowest point
What is a wave's period?
the time is takes wavelength to pass a given point
Motion of water in a wave
circular motion
How are sea arch and sea stack related?
a sea stack is a caved in sea arch
What is a beach?
the area of shore between the high and low tide level
How is a fjord formed?
formed by a glacier valley formed below present day sea level. When the glaciers retreated, the sea flooded parts of the valley
How does the ocean floor affect waves?
A gradual sloping ocean bottom will produce waves that spill and crumble, while an ocean bottom with an abrupt shelf will create plunging top-to-bottom breaking curls
How do oceanographers predict swells?
They use buoys to record the height and distance between swells, which is sent to them via radio & satellite.