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11 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
Three factors that affect the height of a wind-formed wave
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1. wind speed
2. length of time the wind blows 3. the fetch |
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What is wavelength?
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length between crests
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What is crest?
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a wave's highest point
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What is the trough?
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a wave's lowest point
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What is a wave's period?
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the time is takes wavelength to pass a given point
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Motion of water in a wave
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circular motion
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How are sea arch and sea stack related?
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a sea stack is a caved in sea arch
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What is a beach?
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the area of shore between the high and low tide level
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How is a fjord formed?
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formed by a glacier valley formed below present day sea level. When the glaciers retreated, the sea flooded parts of the valley
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How does the ocean floor affect waves?
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A gradual sloping ocean bottom will produce waves that spill and crumble, while an ocean bottom with an abrupt shelf will create plunging top-to-bottom breaking curls
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How do oceanographers predict swells?
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They use buoys to record the height and distance between swells, which is sent to them via radio & satellite.
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