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32 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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hygroscopic actives
moisture |
humectants (glycerol, sorbitol, propylene glycol)
lactic acid and lactates allantoin aloes compounds of NMF |
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hydrophilic filmogen actives
moisture |
hyaluronic acid (GAG)
sulfate chondroitines glycosaminoglycans chitosan: de crustaceous shell collagen elastin substantive polymer hydrophilic polymers |
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hydrophobic filmogen actives
moisture |
fatty compounds: petrolatum, paraffins, ozokerite
animal, vegetal waxes fatty alcohols silicones oils |
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lyotropic filmogen actives
moisture |
polyunsaturated (essential) fatty acids: linoleic, gamma linoleic acid
phospholipids in lecithin ceramids lanolin derived |
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antioxidants and radical traps
moisture |
Vit E:inhibitis peroxidation on lipidous membranes
Vit C: free radical trap, inhibitor of tyrosinase |
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enzymes and cofactors radical trap
moisture |
coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinon
peroxidase gluthation superoxide dismutase enzymes cofactors Cu-Mn Zn selenium |
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vegetal origin molecule and radical trap
moisture |
carotenoids
propolis flavonoids ginko biloba extract green tea extract |
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stimulate epidermis and dermis cell activity
antiageing |
alpha hydroxy acid (AHA)
Retinoids: Vit A, retinoic acid, retinol, retinaldehyde |
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maintain well balance of cutaneous tissues
antiageing |
moisturizers
matrix metalloproteinases (MMP) inhibitor glycation inhibitor |
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other antiageing actives
antiageing |
whitening actives
tensor actives |
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actions on sebaceous secretion
sebum |
Vitamins: b2, b5, b6, b8
zinc and salts linoleic acid azelaic acid dichlorophenyl-imidazoldioxolane vegetal extracts w/ action of 5-alpha reductase |
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action by absorbing sebum
sebum |
clays, kaolin, bentonites, talc, zinc oxide, silica
yeasts membranous |
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astringent action
sebum |
vegetal extracts rich in tannins/flavonoids
witch hazel horse chestnut white nettle rose salvia grapefruit |
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keratoregulator actives
(cell turnover, skin desquamation) sebum |
retinol
alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) lipo hydroxy acids (LHA) vegetal extracts rich in hydroxy acids thionic derived exfoliating or scrubbing agents |
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anti-microbial actives
sebum |
classic: alcohol, chlorhexidine, phenol derived, trichlosan
ethyl lactate vegetal extracts tea tree oil or maleuleca oil |
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calming/soothing actives
sebum |
glycyrretinic derived
allantoin alpha bisabolol azulen and gaiazulen zinc ad its salts vegetal (chammomile, witch hazel, cornflower, juniper, marigold) |
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vegetal extracts
calming/soothing |
chammomile
azulen, gaiazulen neroli oil allantoin cornflower marigold lime ... |
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vegetal extracts w/ vasotonic properties
calming/soothing |
ginko biloba
horse chestnut red vine little holly extract grape seed extract |
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tannins
hydrosoluble vegetal extracts |
witch hazel
horse chestnut white nettle rose coffee |
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flavonoides
hydrosoluble vegetal extracts |
marigold
chammomile rich apigenin cucumber ivy horse chestnut white nettle |
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anthocyans
hydrosoluble vegetal extracts |
cornflower
mallow red fruits (grape, blueberry) |
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polyosides
hydrosoluble vegetal extracts |
gums
mucilage pectins aligates |
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hydrosoluble vitamins
hydrosoluble vegetal extracts |
vitamin B group
vitamin PP: niacin ascorbic acid/vit c |
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alpha hydroxyl acids (AHA)
hydrosoluble vegetal extracts |
glycolic acid, citric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, gluconic acid, salicylic acid
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sapanosides
hydrosoluble vegetal extracts |
triterpenic derived or steroids associated w/ sugars
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allantoin
hydrosoluble vegetal extracts |
hardly soluble, can be chemically synthesized
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oligoelements or trace elements
hydrosoluble vegetal extracts |
iodine
silicium copper manganese zinc |
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essential oils
liposoluble vegetal extracts |
thyme
chammomile camphor lavender mint rose salvia lime |
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flower waters
liposoluble vegetal extracts |
decongesting and astringent actives
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carotens
liposoluble vegetal extracts |
coloring properties, slightly UV protector activity
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vegetal oils
liposoluble vegetal extracts |
borage
wheat germ hazelnut sesame macademia avocado primrose |
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lipophilic vitamins
liposoluble vegetal extracts |
Vit A or retinol
Vit E or tocopherols Vit F |
